Friday, April 17th- last day in Israel

Our final day in Israel. Last night Yossi took us to a “Cowboy” Restaurant. It was very humorous, since it was like we had been transported to Arizona. We went down some random dirt road, between fields and ended up at a cowboy shack, that looked right out of the movies. There was western music playing, girls in cowboy boots and an authentic shack surrounded by cattle. We were in the middle of a cattle ranch. The meat was fresh- like there was mooing in the background while I ate my T-bone. We enjoy just eating by ourselves since we spend the day in the car with Yossi. But we needed Yossi to transcribe what I wanted for dinner to our waitress. To describe the slice of beef I wanted got fairly personal- like Yossi pointing to his hip and describing the cut of meat I wanted!! The food was good, although the girls got chicken- and that tasted almost too fresh- it was so tender the girls were wondering if they could let it sit out for a little or be soaked in preservatives like they do in America! We ate late that night and ended up being the last ones in the cowboy hut with Yossi, a cowgirl and cowing mooing the background.
Back in our rooms, Kendall gave me a near heart attack when she banged on my door, like she was trying to break in at midnight, Syd and I were both asleep and I ran to the door she didn’t say anything and was rattling on the door. I yelled, “ I am going to call the police!” I pulled back the curtain expecting to see the worst and there was Kendall- I was ready to attack! Seriously so tired, what is she doing trying to break into my room!! Our rooms were individual units along the lawn by the beach. So, it was disturbing to have someone banging on your house at night! Almost ready to laugh about it, but that night she didn’t do “the knock” what she instituted so we would know who was at the door, and I almost had a heart attack!
Friday morning we rose to beautiful sun. I went down to the dining room and collected a breakfast picnic. The girls had woken up and were almost packed. We sat out on blankets on the grass by the lake and enjoyed some breakfast in the sun. We packed up,, hit Dr. Lick- no kidding, for a crepe before we headed to Mt. Tabor. Mt. Tabor can be seen almost everywhere. It is a tall rounded mountain/hill. It is where Abraham came and met with Melchezedik in caves thousands of years ago and where Christ took Peter James and John and revealed himself to them as the son of God- Mount of Transfiguration. Here he put them in charge of His Church and showed his truly divine self. Here Moses and Elijah showed themselves to Peter, James and John on this Mt- part of turning over the mantle of responsibility to Christ and his apostles- that they would continue the work that Christ had set out to do. Elijah is significant since he has the power, as we read in the scriptures, to seal the sons to their fathers and their fathers to their sons- sealing up what happens on earth to the heavens. Having Elijah present was another significant thing that happened and a marking of that dispensation which was about to unfold- what was to come with Christ’s final ministry, his suffering in Gethsemane and his sacrifice on the cross and then the continued ministry under Peter James and John carrying the truth of Christ’s atonement and his gospel to the world. (We believe that Christ revealed himself to Joseph Smith in the Kirtland temple, marking the opening of another dispensation, the final dispensation and once again the person with the powers to seal the heavens to the earth and earth to the heavens. We believe this was necessary since since the time of Christ there had been an apostasy- the full and complete truths had been lost and had to be restored in their entirety to the earth once again. )
We hiked up a nature trail that was marked on rocks with blue and white paint. It was straight up! It was beautiful: limestone rocks, deep brown dirt and wild flowers and olive trees growing all around. It was a beautiful steep hike straight up for about an hour until the blue and white markers we were following turned into black and white. We could see a church on top and tried to head towards there, so we hopped a stone wall and found ourselves scaling around this Crusader church trying to make our way to the top, but getting attacked by poison ivy balls- they were spikey green balls that shot some crazy stickers into our legs- all of a sudden, no one was laughing and we found that we would have to climb a chain link fence with barbed wire to get to the top. We backtracked and along the trail ran into a couple bulls, which put Kendall in a spin first to the back of the pack and then leading the charge, bound and determined to find the top. We are about onto a road and Kendall charges through Syd and I right into another bull, who I am sure she scared him more than he scared her. Of course, I thought it was all very funny! She and Syd picked up a jog down the black and white trail that was leading us through old ruins and then some really cool caves. We made it to the top! The views were so beautiful, could see the farm land all around and spectacular views. We could hear Muslims calling out for prayers from their minaret’s in the town below and could hear cows rustling through the bushes – surrounded by spring wildflowers everywhere. So pretty!
The top held a beautiful white church- the home of a convent and a church that sat over caves and glorified the Mt of Transfiguration- a holy place that our prophet Spencer W Kimball called “the highest place on earth.” From the top you had a 360 degree view of everything, near Galilee, near Nazareth and the Jordan Valley. We had a little picnic on top before we went into the church and the lovely little gardens around the church that wove through Byzantine ruins of an old monastery and church marking the place.
We then headed to Caesarea- the ancient Roman City that Herod once built with the largest port, manmade port, that was made and later Israel was governed there by Roman’s governor Pontius Pilot- the one who in the end allowed Christ to be crucified. The city has been uncovered in the past 100 years and has revealed a Hippodrome- where they would have had chariot/horse races, Herod’s old palace on the water, Roman baths, older Byzantine churches built over the Roman Ruins, stadium, and remains of Greek bath houses, gyms and homes with beautiful mosaic floors, that we were walking over. We had fun walking around this 2000 year old city and enjoying the beach that Caesarea was built on. The great city was destroyed during a couple conquests and then ultimately in a huge earthquake and is really just a restored ruin town now.
We made our way to Tel Aviv and it was nice to be able to see it in the day. It is a different kind of city. It was only built 100 years ago and on the outside it looks ok, but the back alleys are run down like an old city, but without the beautiful architecture. They have a great beach and nice tourist hotels along the beach with nice public facilities along the beach, but lots of trash around. The heart of the city is not along the water, just hotels. Even in Caesarea, there aren’t really homes built on the water- since there is no “sweet water” there. The towns and valuable land is inland where there is ground water, wells, springs or rivers. We had an hour to kill before dinner, so we walked along the beach and I told the girls stories of my adventures in Brazil with Yvette- of our hilarious massages and hiking and kayaking 8 hours a day for the week we spent there 9 years ago.
We witnessed a beautiful sunset before going to our delicious restaurant on Montefiore St. It was like we had stepped into another universe and back in time. Old 40s music was playing and it had a Louis Armstrong feel- like a classy old jazz club. We enjoyed a great meal that was “civilized and expensive.” I wanted to be clear that tonight we weren’t looking for our meal lowing in the background. It was a very funny dinner. The girls and I were both very giddy. We met up with Yossi who we said our goodbyes too after a very jerky ride, seriously he has a lead foot- really not exaggerating, something that happened during the war of independence and he slams the breaks on all the time and all the stuff in the van gets thrown from side to side, or he takes corners like we are in a Ferrari and not a van! But, once again, Yossi means well and has been a kind host. He left us with a couple books, one his father-in-law wrote about life on the Kibbutz- since he lived on one, his father-in-law helped establish one in the early 30s when they were set up as communal agricultural military camps. It is something I was fascinated by .
It has been great traveling around the Holy Land/Israel and the home of our Bible. I feel that we have had a great adventure. I couldn’t help but think about my sisters living in Israel and their experience, especially Julie who worked on a Kibbutz- I think for a month. We laughed a ton and walked the lands that our past prophets and our Savior walked while he was on this earth. It was exciting for me to wake up early in the morning and prepare passages to read to the girls about where in the Bible we were now. Truly the scriptures have come alive more for me and the girls. The stories we grew up hearing, came to life. We can now visualize where great events happened in the Bible and in history. I am interested in reading the writing of Josephius Flavius- the Roman soldier that recorded for Rome what he saw and what Israel was like nearly 2000 years ago.
I am grateful to have this opportunity to do it alone with the girls. There are many funny memories, great experiences shared, witnessing places in history and learning together and having a greater understanding of people and places we know and are part of our beliefs. It is culturally enriching, to learn about other cultures, to be reminded that our Father didn’t create us all alike and that we are all God’s children. To be reminded in the Yad Vashem, that we should never discriminate against people of different faiths, different customs, different circumstances. Israel is a land that has survived millenniums of battles, of conflicts and continues to survive and find peace in places where it is not imagined, like how anything can grow around the Dead Sea or how friendships can persist between divided lands and walled off cities. But, as we understand each other more, we share what we have and what we know and show respect for each other, peace can exist.
I believe that through our trips and our experiences we have found that we can love and respect people of different faiths, colors, background. If we know who we are, we are grounded in our faith, we will be secure in ourselves to let other’s live their lives. It is not easy to hold onto ones faith sometimes, but it is that faith that makes us strong spiritually and physically. Allowing others to live their faith does not make ours weaker, but like times of old and even in times in the last century, when people loose tolerance for others and condemn those that aren’t like them, peace cannot exist and as we have been instructed after loving our Heavenly Father we are to love our neighbor and our enemy and show kindness and serve them as we would to our God.
I think what I was most moved by this trip was the Yad Vashem. We must first love our God and then love our neighbors and that means getting to know them, understanding them and showing respect for them. Fear should not rule us and is not of God. What happened in WW II was people who had stopped thinking for themselves, people responding to fear and doing horrific things and so many not preventing horrific things out of fear. My great hope in seeing the world and understanding the people and places that we visit is that we will become more tolerant of those not like us, while understanding that the strength of great leaders started by having some peace in oneself and being able to stand for truth and righteousness, not cowering from it.
The world is getting more challenging. I don’t know what lies ahead for us in this life, but if we don’t have strong footings in our beliefs and who we are we will not weather the storms well, but if we stay close to what we have been taught, to who we are and to our Father in Heaven, I believe we can stand strong, feel and generate peace and make a difference for good in this world, that is the legacy I hope to leave behind.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Passover has finished- it is Thursday and we are at the Sea of Galilee. It is so beautiful and fertile around the lake. So different than what we have seen so far, except for in the Jordan Valley driving up from the Dead Sea. Yesterday coming into Nazareth was really beautiful and there are many fertile hills around, but where we are is not so much limestone any more but basalt. The kibbutzes that are around here are lush farms that were placed on reclaimed swamps that have made for fertile fields. There are mango trees, date palms, fruits of all kinds growing. There are many olive trees and a variety of vegetation. You can imagine what a wonderful place it was for Christ to live and preach in this area, after he began is ministry.

Our route was pretty good coming from Qumran, where on the Jordan River near there Christ was baptized by John and Baptist. He then came into Nazareth, where he was turned away as just son of Mary and Joseph and not as the Savior. He then came through Cana, where his mother was at a wedding and he performed his first recorded miracle, turning water into wine for the wedding feast. He came into Capernaum and would have preached and taught in the synagogues in the area and specifically in the one in Capernaum. There he chose Peter, James, John, Andrew and others. Peter lived in this town and today we visited where his home would have been right on the shores of the lake since he was a fisherman. The scriptures describe these men as being willing to follow without hesitation, to become fisher of men. Christ chose his apostles and then performed countless miracles.

This morning before we headed out I marked my scriptures and the girls and I read of the miracles performed in a day of the life of Christ in Capernaum, healing the man with palsy, healing the blind men, raising a daughter of a man in the village, his life was one of service and he asked that his apostles and disciples do like wise, to serve others, not to just preach, but the fields are ready to harvest, there is much work to be done, not of just preaching the word but doing the word, healing the sick, caring for those around them. This is a great example to us, not to just teach the word but to believe and live upon the word- action- care for our neighbors for those in need and through serving them, you find love for them.
Capernaum was basically an archaeological dig, with the foundations and walls of the home of Peter and of other homes that were there. There is a large church built over the home of Jesus while he lived in Capernaum- which was the home of Peter, which was built over the foundation of an old church in the Byzantine era. The most impressive thing there were the remains of an old synagogue that was built over an older Synagogue that would have been the one Christ woujld have taught in. There was a terrible earthquake that destroyed the town in about the 8th century AD and sicne they no one had really lived in the town until the Franciscans came over a 100 years ago and began excavating and restoring the town that so many miracles occurred in and where Christ kept his base during his three years of his ministry, after his baptism.
The girls and I enjoyed being on the water, you can imagine old fishing ships on the lake and there are some that are out now, that take people out onto the lake where Christ walked on water, where he had the apostles pull up large nets of fish and right in front of where we walked where the Centurion asked for sheckles as a tax and Christ told Peter to cast his hook into the water and fetch a fish, inside wouljd be the coin to pay the centurion- they did not want to make trouble and proof that God would provide. There are so many things that happened in and around this lake. There are so many beautiful rolling hills, where Christ couljd have gathered his disciples, and spoken to large groups, with a most beautiful backdrop of the lake and tall grasses.
We headed over to the latest archaeological finding in the area, which is the oldest documented wooden craft found, here on the shore of Galilee. It was discovered just a few decades ago in the mud off the shore. It has been dated to be around 2000 years ago. It is not known whose boat it was but it is near Capernaum. It was a fisherman’s boat. There was a great battle against the Romans on the lake in around 70 AD when the Romans were conquering the Jews and the fisherman fought until thousands died on their fishing boats and the Romans came on large rafts and killed them. It could have been boats that Christ’s apostles or other fisherman in the area had been in. It is really well preserved and is very cool to see.
We had lunch at a great little place with HUGE portions near here and then headed to the Mt of Beatitudes. Here Christ gave the Sermon on the Mount. You can easily see how this could have been the place, it looks down on Capernaum. It is a rolling hill, now covered with tall grasses and groves below. He could have easily been seen from the top of the hill and heard, and what a beautiful setting to learn of his new and great commandments, so very different than from what had been taught before. He taught of loving your enemy, doing good to those that harm you. Prior the Law of Moses was an eye for an eye and love thy friend and hate thine enemy. But now we are told here to turn the other check to forgive and love one another. He expounds on the commandments and teaches a new law, that is made possible through him- since he will be the one that makes the sacrifice for this to become possible.
We hiked up the tall hill on a dirt road that wove through the fields. So beautiful. We sat on a water block and looked over and read from Matthew 5-7 and talked about these verses. We enjoyed taking pictures. We all agreed that truly as we read these passages here, we can no imagine where they were spoken, it makes it more real, more even relevant to us. We continued up the hill, it began to rain. There was a beautiful red poppy on the side of the path, surrounded by other flowers and by the acacia tree, which is the tree that those that mocked Christ made a crown of thorns out of . It was a perfect symbol. We didn’t see another red flower on the hill. It stood alone amongst the beauty but by the patch of thorns. We climbed up and found Yosi, who came to find us in the rain and walked around the church at the top of the hill- a Catholic chapel where the Pope had visited in the 60s. Near here is wehre the last Pope came and gave a sermon and thousands gathered. There is a convent here too and now a little Inn.
We came back down and I took I nice walk on the beach around the Sea of Galilee in front of our Kibbutz En Gev. We had seen in town yesterday that the Nativities where going for 1/3 less than we bought them for in Bethlehem. I was very frustrated and felt very used and put in a strange position, with our Arab taxi driver who just dropped us off there and there were no other options. We paid way more than we should have for the Nativities- like a few hundred dollars. There is a whole game they play with tourists, since you are sort of held captive. I complained how I felt that I had been taken, since there were Nativities there in town that were similar and so much less expensive, like a couple hundred dollars. Today our guide Yossi reported that to our tour company, that I believe also gets a cut of what we spend. We were refunded a few hundred dollars by our tour company today, thanks to Yossi who pursued that. It will go towards his tip. He has been very gracious and has given us our space on this trip. It has been a little difficult since I like to do things in our way and we like to have our space so we can chat, have our own thoughts and be alone to laugh, talk and be in the place, it is different this time since we really have to have a driver. But, there is no way that we could do this trip without one- and for one thing Yossi is SO much better than Yoshi- I think we have said a hundred times, what if we still had Yoshi?!!! So Scary!!!

Well, off to dinner on the Kibbutz. I bought a book about Kibbutzes. They fascinate me, this communal living. How and when it has worked and how they are evolving. It is very socialist in most ways- all caring and donating to the community and having no money of their own. But, how it is more of an ideal and how it doesn’t totally work in this world- what if someone works harder, or needs more than another or wants more or something more expensive than another. They have moved to salaries rather than equal shares and so in some ways they have lost some of the ideal. But it is almost like towns of old, when they drew together as a matter of safety,, survival and way to raise families and join together to be more successful as a group than as individuals in a rugged terrain.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

April 15, 2009
We left the King David Hotel later today so the girls could sleep in and since we wanted to first see the Dead Sea Scrolls. The Shrine of the Book is part of the Israel Museum. It houses the Dead Sea Scrolls- which were only found about 50 years ago in Qumran in a cave by a Bedoin goat herder. He was looking for his goat and he threw a rock near a rock where and it made some glass cracking sound. He wondered what that sound was and went in and found a manmade cave, like a vault that held ancient scrolls in ceramic jars. He sold them to some people and a few years later some of these scrolls got into the hands of archaeologists, they found that the scrolls, some written on parchment, some on leather, were over 2000 years old and were from the Essenes. The scrolls were the books of the Bible. The one scroll that was completely intact was from the Book of Isaiah. The Essenes were people that were like the “keepers of the faith.” They studied the words of the scriptures, lived a life that was not centered on war, but were a peaceful people who left Jerusalem likely because they felt the way that Jesus did, that those that were the Pharisees and the Priests in the temples had become corrupted and that they were no longing keepers of the faith, but that they had become corrupted. It is likely that John the Baptist could have been an Essene and possibly have even lived here for a time. He lived in the wilderness, and this woujld have been considered the wilderness, near the Dead Sea, about a 45 minute drive from Jerusalem. The reason this place would have been choosen is that it is near a spring, one of the few springs near the Dead Sea. There were many caves here, where they could go off and contemplate, there was a small town where there would have been a library, dining hall, cleaning baths, that were part of the ritual of cleansing, before each meal. Many ways it was like a monastery of studying the scriptures, drawing closer to God and for them, keepers of the faith. These scrolls show that the Bible has remained fairly intact in its scriptural form for a couple millennium.

The Shrine of the Book was very interesting, they dug up where they lived, these would have been men that came and went for almost 150 years or more. They left this area in around 65 AD and would have left with the threat of the Romans and scattered. They clearly hid the scrolls in their manmade cave which was like a vault. In their excavated town they found dishes, sundial which was essential to keeping traditions that they are to be on certain days and the calendar was important to keeping their sacred holidays. There were oil lamps found, vases and dishes, ink wells, writing utensils and simple tools. They would have left rather quickly but with the thought of once things settled they would return and gather there again, which did not appear to happen, since the Romans gained total control of Israel in around 70-73 AD.

It was cool to go to Qumran after and see the excavated site and the location of the cave. Really sheer luck to uncover them and it gives us confirmation of the accuracy of our Old Testament and insight into the life of these people- since there is written their strict codes and brief history of their people and their beliefs. There we saw a short film about the place nad the people, their ritual baths, their meals eaten in silence and their studies and writings.
We saw at the Israel Museum the model made of limestone of the Old City of Jerusalem during Christ’s time and you could get a better sense of how small the city was, nothing outside the city walls. The Mount of Olives was outside the cityw alls and where Christ suffered for our sins in Gethsemane, then see where he went to Caiphas’s palace and then to Pontos Pilot’s court, Antonio’s Fortress and then from there maybe to Herod’s palace and then to Calvary where he was hung on the cross and then to the tomb and then rose again and appeared to Mary. All would have been in the city for Passover and stayed in and around the old city. The model is good for giving perspective and it changes as new discoveries are made. We see where the Pool of Siloam is where Christ told the blind man to go to the Pool and wash his eyes and be able to sea, that he had to walk down from the temple mount and then have the faith to see- that Pool we ended at outside near the Hezekiah tunnel.
After museum we went to Qumran and saw the movie, saw the village that has been excavated and the cave and then had a bite to eat. We bought some mud and sea salts, since I swear my skin feels tighter and better since the mud bath yesterday!!
We began our around 2 hour drive to Nazareth. I asked Yosi to please take us to a place where we could have a quiet moment and see Nazareth. We were able to see the city from the top o f a beautiful munt. Apparetnly where the Pope is coming in May and going to give a sermon, last time was in Bethlehem. It was peaceful with a beautiful little path. You could see Mt Tabor-which is believed to the the Mount of Transfiguration. We read from the scriputes about Christ living in Nazareth, we also read the account from 1 Nephi when Nephi saw Nareth in a dream, 600 years before Christ was born and saw Mary and knew that Christ would be born here.

We headed down the hill and into the very busy city of Nazareth, during Christ’s town it was a tiny village, off the path and away from the city. It was only around 6 acres. There is a huge Catholic Church built over where is thought to be Mary’s home back in Christ’s time. Here it is believed that the angel Gabriedl revealed to mary in her home that she as a virgin was most choosen among women and woujld bear her first sone as a JESUS, who wouljd be be the son of God. Here is alos where Joseph wouljd have received the same confirmaion that Chirst is to be born of Mary, the wife he was engaged to,. This massive church covers the home of Mary, right near the worship of Joseph. There is a Byzantine church, which a new structure in this century was built, which is the largest Christain church in the Near East- huge nad rather beautiful and it has depictions fo Mary in mosaics all over the courtyards and inside the church. There is also a chapel dedicated to joseph, which is near where Joseph coujld have worked- since it seemsed to be an area of work.

The whole town and everywhere we walked was where Christ walked. This was a small town and he lived her for almost 30 years. They knew him well. When he returned to Galilee, after his baptism and his 40 day fast he came here. They turned him away denying him as the son of God. He then went to Cana, which we drove through where he performed his first miracle for his mother, who was attending a wedding and they had run out of drink- he turned water to wine there. From there he headed to Galilee.


As we entered Galilee, we drove to where people get baptized now in the River Jordan,it was beautiful and scenic. There were possums there that looked like giant rats, we were a little freaked out.

We had a great vegiie dinner, then checkout out our Kibbutz. It is NOT the King David, but fine enough, in my room covered in blue tile, floor to sealing, This room could be cleaned with a hose. But, glad to be here.

Falling asleep in my kibbutz bed. Goodnight. Fun day and lots of interesting things. Entering the area where Jesus lived in Nazareth and then around the Sea of Galilee, it was as I thought it would be, a beautiful and peaceful place to grow up and later come and teach, preach His father's words.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

We drove out into the most barren and dry landscape where Masada stood, overlooking the valuable resource to the early Israelites- the Dead Sea rich with minerals, and lots of SALT as we found out after Masada. We were dressed in our headdresses by Yossi and forged up the "Snake Trail." It took us about 40 minutes, like going straight up in the serious heat on a stair master. We stopped several times to catch our breath, but we were racing against the sun that was getting stronger and the family on pilgramage behind us!! We made it to the top, where we found some coolness on the ledge of a huge cistern, carved like a bottomless cave. Masada was very interesting. We learned about the zealots that lived there for about 12 years and staid off the Romans as the last group of Jews in Israel before the Romans built a ramp and a battering ram and finally conquered Masada. When the Romans arrived they found that they had all killed themselves rather than being taken as slaves. There were a couple women and children that hid and lived and were the ones to the tell the story. The story was recorded by Flavis who was a Roman who went on to write many books about the area and the stories and the people of the areas the Romans conquered.

Herod had built a winter palace here and it had been a fortress for many years, a place that the Romans could look after their precious minerals. Herod's palace was very elaborate, it was tiered down one side of the mountain and some of the mosaics and painted works were still intact from over 2000 years ago. Pretty amazing.

We took the trolley down and then watched the film about the zealots and the symbol of Masada to many Jews today- that we will not give up our lands, rather die than surrender. On many levels and as a world heritage site, Masada is fascinating.

We headed to the Dead Sea. Yossi left us at the entrance and the girls and I headed to the Sea. Truly, you float, you can't swim you are bobbing to the surface. It is the strangest sensation, almost like you are in space or like you have a gigantic life saver on! Thank goodness Yossi brought us water shoes- there is so much silt/mud, you would sink down to your ankles in some areas. We climbed out and the girls thought it would be brilliant to cover their hair with mud, see what they look like as brunettes. Well, it was very entertaining and then as they covered their bodies, you couldn't tell who they were. Kendall truly looked like an aboriginee, since her suit was all black too!! We laughed at those covered in mud as we went down to the water, but there were on a couple as gooped up and black as the girls were- since every ounce of hair and flesh was coated. I dove in, all but my hair. It was a riot, we had a full photo shoot and it just kept getting funnier until our skin was so dryed out that we felt like we were drying up. Washing it off was strange, filling up the water surrounding us with what looked like ink. Problem, the stuff wsn't coming out of the girls' hair!!!

We headed to the showers and the girls kept trying to wash it out, but there hair wasn't going back to blonde, it was grey/green!!!! They were starting to freak, I was laughing- glad I didn't do the full dip!! there was no way of getting rid of all the black and coating until we got home. We headed back to the hotel and took long baths. The girls had a kick uploading new facebook profile photos. So funny.

As it came to be eveing, we went over to the Jaffa Gate of the old city and walked around and went shopping, finding gifts for family. I am sure we got ripped off, but it is such a pain all the bargaining! We went into one shop deep in the marketplace and found awesome sandals. The man there offered 400 camels to the girls for me!! I am thinking that is a good price. I was also offered a Bedoin massage- don't think that I was ready to take that offer!!! I was offered 250 camels for the girls from the great shoe keeper, who kept showing us pictures of his Palestinian sons. Tempting, but think I might have to pass. We enjoyed a few good laughs with our new friend, got ripped off on a few pairs of sandals and headed to our favorite restaurant from the first night, Cavalier. We were greeting warmly and given seats on the bar, where we pigged out on delicious fresh vegetables and tasty entrees and deadly chocolate volcanoes!!! We stepped outside and it was like a hurricane- windy and stuff blowing everywhere. we made a dash for the hotel.

Tongiht is our last night in Jerusalem. We have really loved it and had a lot of fun. Tomorrow we head out to see Qumran, since it was closed today when we went there and the Dead Sea Scrolls in the Israel Musem and then at least Nazareth before we check into our Kibbutz.

Good day!

Muddy Buddys!

Today was fantastic! Sure I basically have dreads, a slight face rash, and I can't feel my legs...but it was all in the name of fun. We woke this morning and we got into our new much more spacious van with Yosi. We drove about two hours into the desert and got out of the car at a huge mountain called Masada. It was so pretty and so LARGE. We hopped out of the car and Yosi whipped out some while scarves. He swirled it around our heads. I am sorry, but I have never felt like such a fool in all my years. So then Yosi left us to hike all the way to the top of the mountain while he took the nice AIR CONDITIONED tram to the top, uh. Well we began this hike. It wasn't so bad at first with out turbans on. We took it slow and drank a lot of water. It wasn't until half way threw when I began to get really hot. 

"Ah to heck with the turban!" 

We marched on. When we got to the top we looked around and we saw how this "living space" worked and functioned. It was really incredible, and it still shocks me how they manage to make everything out of stone. Then we saw King Harod's palace. There was still remnants of where the paint was. It was amazing. 

We went to the Dead Sea after. When we walked down to the water it was like a beach. It was so confusing when we first got there. All these people were shiny black. "Are they black or is that mud?" we all thought. Well there were guys and some older heavier women that were caked in it. haha. Great image. We hopped in the water and you float! It was so insane! We just floated around and when you stand your shoulders are above the water. We hoped out of the water and saw a huge pit of mud! A guy handed us a huge glob. Kendall and I thought it would be funny to make our hair black. So we piled on the thick...paste. It kind of made me want to gag. haha. It looked so funny though! That was when we decided it would be even better to make our whole bodies black. How genius! It looked SO sketchy and SO funny! Mom joined in the fun too! She left her hair out though. We looked great as black women. 

Then we jumped in the water and since you don't sink we could only get our bodies. We went to the  fresh water showers. The black gelatinous muck dripped into my open mouth. So that was a bonus. Then Kendall and I discovered our hair was grey/green. Yep I know. It wouldn't and wont come out. So then we hoped back in to the car with our new hair and now we are back at the marvelous King David Hotel.

April 13, 2009

Israel 3rd Day , April 13, 2009

We started out today at the Yad Vashem. It was amazing- from the architecture, to the grounds to the most through and complete expeditions. The building was shaped so that it is a long tunnel of concrete that opens up at the end. The start shows a film of how it used to be with European Jews, they were well integrated into the community. Then it shows how Hitler began his propaganda and how the start of severe discrimination and hatred began: burning books, restricting Jews in everyway from all things normal in society. Then, the Germans gathering Jews into Ghettos. Hitler had written his propaganda from prison, he was not a great man but knew how to build up the Germans into thinking they were powerful through him. He got rid of their democracy and became a totalitarian. Their economy was hurting after WWI and he said that they could be the strongest in the world. He wanted to get rid of the weaker links in his society, the mentally and physically ill, the gypsies, the Jews and anyone else that wasn’t part of Hitler’s ideal nation. They then made a move on Poland and gathered the Jews and put them in Ghettos- made them wear yellow stars of David to identify them. They then took them to concentration camps, which were work camps. Their strategy was to keep them deceived and fooled and hungry. If they were hungry enough they could not be a force, they then separated them into men, women and children, weakening them again. Later they were exterminated by gas chambers. Large groups would be packed on trains and told they were going to be rehabilitated or something and they would get off the trains, be taken down stairs into rooms where they would have their heads shaved, their clothes and shoes removed and then all piled into a gas chamber and gassed to death. They were then put in ditches or crematoriums. They weren’t at the extermination camps longer than a couple hours before they were killed.
There are so many videos and written accounts and names and birthdates and photos that show what happened. The Germans kept an account of everything so there is so much evidence, including lists of Jews in each country and how many Jews were in each camp. They took away their things, their families, and their identities when they shaved their heads and gave them numbers. It is amazing that anyone survived. At the end they marched them to death, since no one had given any orders to continue the extermination as things were falling apart within the German forces/ machine. They choose to walk them to death. When the war ended they found Jews in marches that had been deserted, some in camps where the guards had deserted.
There are exhibits that show that Americans and others knew about what was going on, but we didn’t get involved until Pearl Harbor. Then after the war, America and other countries didn’t let them into their countries. There was once again no where for the remaining Jews to go but back to their countries, which would have been terrifying. There were thousands of children without parents, so many people without their families. They stayed in camps for a while, rehab camps, but it was hard for them to go anywhere, their homes, families, dignity and livelihood had been taken away. They moved into refugee camps and many tried to come to Israel, but at first it was difficult to get in. They had no nation of their own. Now they have Israel, anyone that is Jewish can come and get an Israeli passport. It became more clear how important Israel became to the Jews, some place that could be their home. 6,000,000 were exterminated. At the end of the memorial there is a room where you can find your ancestors and where you can include a member of your family that would have died during the Holocaust. They have around 3,000,000 people recorded and dates and information about them. It would be amazing to come and find a family member or to be able to add to their history.

The end of the museum opens up to a spectacular view of the hillsides. There are many beautiful trees planted around that are dedicated to the gentiles that helped protect and keep Jews. There is a quote that I have heard before in the museum, it goes something like this: they came for the Jews, but I was not a Jew, they came for the ill, but I was not ill, and they came for me, and there was no one left. I have not quoted this accurately, but it is true, We have to look after our neighbors, our brothers and sisters in this world. Something like this should not happen again if we stand for up for each other. Discrimination is deadly, even the start of it. I have always felt so deeply that we should never judge others, we should not point fingers and that we should try to understand others, rather than be afraid and show hate. Witnessing this terrible thing, people forgot to stand up for others, some did, but most didn’t. Many trusted or were too afraid of resisting. I cant judge them, but I feel deep in myself I would have had the strength to stand up, to look after others and love my neighbor and would have tried to protect them against these atrocities. I am so grateful that many did. I was moved by Denmark who choose to gather their Jews and ship them to Oslo, which was neutral and only a couple Jews were killed. They choose to protect their neighbors and created a solution and as a result saved nearly 7000 lives. The wild thing is the Germans were killing the Jewish women and children- innocents. The ones that decided on the extermination order and directive were a group of scholarly men. How could this have happened?
The girls and I spent 3 hours in the museum and could have spent more, it was moving and fascinating and shocking.
After lunch at the museum, we went to Bethlehem. It made me think how some could have thought how is there a God to allow this to happen? My thoughts are that this is an imperfect world, a world of sin and God works through men on earth to look after each other. Some choose to do evil, but those that are willing to stand with Him against evil will conquer. Not enough people stood against evil. I feel it is not a crime against God but against people, people who forgot to think for themselves nad followed a leader that led them down the worst physical and spiritual path I can think of. I also think that Hitler obviously and many others did not remember the great commandment to Love one Another and the Golden Rule, do unto others as you would have them do unto you. There is no, “..unless, or only if,…” We are to love all people and be our brother’s keeper.
As we entered Bethlehem, we had to stop outside the gates. Bethlehem is part of Palestine- the Arab Nation that is inside Israel. Our Jewish guide could not come inside with us. We had another taxi take us and guide to Bethlehem. There we visited the Church of the Nativity, the oldest church in Christendom. There are remains of the original mosaic floor that was made 1700 years ago. There is another structure on top of it that is from the Crusaders time, around 1000 years ago. It is pretty interesting, it being shared with the Greek Orthodox, the Eastern Orthodox and the Roman Catholic Church. There is a cave you enter, although it is hard to tell it is even a cave, since it had burned to black several hundred years in an argument over the cave/stable . There is a shrine built over the birth place and a manger made of stone (the original is no longer there.) There is also a grave for the children and some of their mothers that the y believe is from the time of Herod, when the babies in Bethlehem were ordered to be killed, all those boys 2 and under. There is also the grave of one St. Jerome who transcribed over 35 years the Greek New Testament into Latin and the Hebrew Bible into Latin. There is the cave that he would have lived in. There is also a Roman Catholic Church where they hold a Christmas Eve service in every year. It was very interesting.

We were then taken to overlook the shepherds fields. In these rolling hills around Bethlehem, is where the shepherds would have been when they saw the angels and heard them proclaim that Christ had been born. Bethlehem is on a hill, which would have likely been above where they were tending fields and in my mind the star would have been clearly shining over a certain spot, so they could have seen where it fell and could have come fairly quickly.
The route included a stop to one man’s shop- clearly a deal that is laid out before with our taxi driver. We bought a manger for Kendall and items for the girls’ friends. We bought Sam a little nativity too. Syd we had to go to another place, which was a little sketchy and we found one there too. We pulled up in basically some back garage. I was ready to make a move, if need be- but I kept thinking our main guide knows this guy well, so I am hoping that we are in good hands and Bethlehem makes it ‘s living off of tourism, so hopefully this is all fine!
At the border there was a lot of traffic, so we went around another way- we had to walk through metal gates up a path with our Palestinian guide, little sketchy and felt like we were being fooled into some trap- thinking what are we doing three blonde American girls alone!!! But it was fine and we ended up at the gate. I have to say this was the first really sketchy feeling I have had while here. But once again, knocking off Americans can’t be good for Bethlehem’s business!
The situation of the walls around Palestine are really sad actually. Because of all the fighting and suicide bombers in 2000 and that continued for several years, the only way the government felt that they could control it is put a wall around Palestine, the wall is almost done. It is miles and miles long. It reminds me of the Berlin wall. It is sad for those behind the wall. They all lived peacefully for many years as neighbors and now there is a wall that is very restricting and I have to say of what I have seen around this West Bank wall, it is not as nice or as clean or as successful as outside the walls. I can see the Israelis being protective and not wanting to be pushed out of another country, but I see that the Arabs have been here for centuries and for them to get pushed behind a wall is sad too.

We came back and took a nap in the sun before we went to a good Kosher restaurant tonight and then walked around and did a little shopping in this big outdoor mall around the side of our hotel. The food is very healthy and feels pretty vegetarian- actually vegan since it is Passover and you can only eat unleven bread- lots of Matzah!!After some shopping and some ice cream we headed back to the hotel. Girls were so tired. Tomorrow is a big day with the Masada. Our guide is good but very chatty, like so chatty I have to say enough. I came back with a headache and ready for some quiet time. We are having lots of laughs, partially because we are delusional with tiredness, we have walked miles- or at least we did yesterday that we were all sore today. Tomorrow will be a good hike up the mountain, but it will be fun and then to the Dead Sea and Qumran to see the Dead Sea Scrolls.

The First Day in Israel! --KB

Shabbat Shalom from Israel!! Thanks for tuning in today!

So far this trip has been a great one! Full of great spiritual experiences, laughs, and delusional-ness! But, nevertheless, we have had a Wonderful time!

The first day was most definitely an adventure! Yoshi (YoSi is his real name) was our guide from H-E-double toothpicks! But luckily, we had another Christian guide yesterday so we wouldn't have to put up with Yoshi all day long!

It's very unfortunate that the attitude and vibe of our guide, Yoshi, was there or else this could've been a very spiritual and maybe moving entry for all of you readers following this journey of ours!

We went to the Mount of Olives and had a pleasant turn of schedule! We were going to attend sacrament meeting at the BYU Jerusalem Center, however, they were watching conference so we wouldn't. Which I am actually sad about because from the small glance I saw, the chapel is BEAUTIFUL! But instead we were able to walk around on the grass and soak up the warm sun while we caught up in our journals! We weren't even around Yoshi! Soon, we did get picked up by him and Nater, our Christian guide for the day.

We made our way to Pastor Noster, where many religions believe that Christ assended into heaven. We walked around the small church and around it. On all the walls, inside and out, was the Lord's Prayer in all different languages! It was really neat! Nater took us by the English plaque and left us alone so that we could have a spiritual moment. How thoughtful! I wish I could say the same about Yoshi. Surpirse, surprise; guess who lurked out of the shadows to tower 2 inches behind me while we tried to enjoy this time alone (or so we thought). Mom went up to Yosi and told him, "Just so you know, we are fine with just being by ourselves! You don't really need to follow us around," she said pleasantly and laughed, hoping he would understand.

"Vell, eef eet doesn't bother you, I vill just stay veet you."
"Well, it does!" she said! No more messin' around! Good job, Mom!
"Eet does?"
"Yes, it sort of does!"
"Vell then, I'll just be een the car."

Hallelujiah! He was gone! Thank you, Mom!

We then drove to Caiaphas's house. This is where Jesus was held underneath his house in a dark pit! It was very interresting to be able to be where Christ was all alone. While we were down there, we read a Psalm that they had down there. It helped me to visualize the lonely feeling that Jesus must have felt. There was a spirit down there that just felt right and peaceful. Because the whole part of the Atonement is that it is a part of Heavenly Father's Plan of Happiness. And it all just felt right!

Unfortunately, the spiritual feeling was again ruined by another crazy guide! He got right up in Nater's grill and was threatening him and asking him if there was a problem! The peaceful feeling I had was quickly replaced with fear of a fight awkwardness! haha

This is all that I can write tonight, but throughout the day today and I'm sure for the rest of the trip, there are going to be many more spiritual, or very hilarious, experiences! Looking forward to sharing them with you!

--Kendall Blake (4/12/09; Easter Sunday; but written about the 11th)